Jelado Salem: Revisiting Vintage Treasures
For 2025/2026, Jelado presents 'The Cream of The Cache' collection, a carefully curated project spanning the year to recreate the brand’s most exceptional vintage pieces. These are all inspired by Goto-san's vintage archive, his expert knowledge in vintage clothing and modern day manufacturing. The phrase 'cream of the cache' is a coined expression meaning 'the finest collection', a fitting description for this celebration of vintage style and craftsmanship.
The blanket pattern design has become something of a signature for Jelado in recent years, expertly recreating vintage-style blanket motifs from the 1920s and ’30s. For longtime followers of Jelado and Clutch, the original Salem series, first released back in 2018, will be familiar. That collection featured a striking black-and-white blanket pattern, meticulously reproduced from an original piece preserved in Goto-san’s archive.
We thought we’d take a moment to share a bit about the process behind this fabric - to give you a glimpse into the care, detail, and attention that goes into every piece.
At the heart of the Salem Coat is a specially reproduced vintage blanket fabric, a faithful recreation of a rare 1920's textile. Crafted from a 92% wool and 8% nylon blend, this double-sided brushed jacquard blanket fabric stands out with its striking black-based colour-way - an especially rare palette even within vintage markets.
Jelado’s vintage revivals wouldn’t be possible without their partnership with a small jacquard weaver & respected textile producer in Bishu known for preserving traditional methods. They start by digging into original vintage samples, carefully studying rare fabrics from the 19th and 20th centuries to bring back that authentic look and feel. Recreating these fabrics, especially wool, takes time - usually five to six months and several test samples before getting it just right. Not many brands put in this much care due to the costs involved.
Bishu’s wool weaving history runs deep, rooted in Japan’s Aichi Prefecture and stretching back centuries. Originally known for silk production, the region transformed into Japan’s foremost wool hub following the 1891 Nobi Earthquake.
This shift was driven by growing Western fashion influences and Bishu’s unique natural resources, like the soft waters of the Kiso River, which proved ideal for textile production. Over time, Bishu nurtured specialised mills and generations of skilled artisans, building a legacy of craftsmanship that remains at the heart of Japan’s wool industry today.
Jacquard Card Setup (Upper Loom Section)
The fabric manufactured for Jelado is far from ordinary. Crafted on vintage looms using traditional weaving techniques, this process demands patience, precision, and a deep respect for these traditional methods. Rather than mass-produced by modern machines, each yarn is woven carefully, on antique machines preserved over-time by highly skilled artisans.
This vintage approach gives the fabric a unique texture and character impossible to replicate with high-speed production. The weave is tight yet breathable, durable & soft, gaining depth and personality over time. Finished with a double-sided brushed surface, the fabric offers warmth and a gentle, subtle feel.
The warp yarn is crafted from 40-count two-ply 100% Australian Merino wool, spun at a denser 2/40 ratio instead of the traditional 2/48. This upgrade, known as “Level Up Wool,” maximises yarn quality despite its thicker count.
The weft combines 90% wool and 10% nylon using a 5-count single yarn, also spun from Australian Merino. This blend offers a texture akin to British wool - firm and resilient - while the nylon adds strength and softness for enhanced durability and comfort.
Woolen fabric is subjected to a carefully controlled process involving heat, moisture, friction, and pressure, known as “fulling.” This treatment produces a softer, denser, and more compact fabric. Following fulling, the fabric undergoes napping, where a fine wire brush is used to create a soft, fuzzy surface. To achieve a smooth and even finish, the cloth is then sheared. Each piece of fabric is carefully inspected and finished by hand (when required) to ensure the highest of quality.
The Jelado Salem Blanket Weave is a remarkable example of how traditional craftsmanship and vintage inspiration can come together to create a fabric that honours the history of traditional manufacturing processes and love for vintage clothing & textiles. Through careful weaving techniques, quality materials, and the expertise of the Bishu textile region, Jelado has crafted a textile that is visually striking & one-of-a-kind.
The Salem Coat isn’t just about its outstanding fabric - it’s thoughtfully designed down to the smallest detail. It features a classic button-front closure, using nut buttons, paired with two large patch pockets perfect for carrying your essentials or keeping your hands warm. For added comfort and ease of movement, the coat uses raglan sleeve construction, which allows for a more natural range of motion without feeling restrictive. Practical touches like the button cuff adjusters let you customise the fit around your wrists, while the throat tab closure helps seal out cold air, keeping you cosy on chilly days.
* Thanks to the guys at Jelado for sharing some of the great imagery of the weaving process behind this blanket pattern*
